The Gift by Marc Andreini
Marc Andreini is a California surfboard shaper whose experience spans from the 1960's to the 21st Century, and paralells and sometime collides with surf history. The Gift is a collage of stories which covers the entire arc of the evolution of the surfboard: from it's origins in Hawaii to the modern world. Along the way Andreini details what he has learned from the ancient Hawaiians, Tom Blake, Bob Simmons and George Greenough and the innovators / madmen of surfing. The Gift also includes testimonials and philosophy from 19 of surfing's most prestigious and prolific pioneers / practitioners, who share their personal stories, photographs and surf culture musings.